http://carabistouye.blogspot.com/
because, apparently, i can't write in english anymore
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Mi vida Quiteña
[1] I'm currently sitting in the FLACSO (a library) cafeteria trying to drown out the almuerzito (lunch) crowd...dozens of conversations are bouncing off the high ceiling, poorly insulated walls and windows, trying desperately to distract me from work. Two months ago, these conversations probably wouldn't have clouded my thoughts one bit. In fact, I usually love working with white noise, I seem to stay focused longer. So what changed? I can now understand everything. The noise around me is no longer white and I can't help but lose myself in the chaos of all the colors...
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
A taste of the country, Quilotoa
My weekend in Quilotoa was, without a doubt, one of the best I've had yet. The countryside, the people, the food... everything was beautiful. The trip started with a 2 hour bus ride to Latacunga, a small city South of Quito. Sophie and I didn't stay stay long in between our buses after some horror stories I heard from a few other travelers. After finding the station (no help to the Latancungan locals who ignored all of our questions... really, straight up ignored us), we caught another 2 hour bus to Zumbahua, an indigenous peublo up the mountain. The drive was long and windy but spectacular as the sun began to set. We had planned on staying in Zumbahua that night, but after talking to a fellow American in the seat behind us, we decided to spend the night next to the lake, in Quilotoa itself.
We hired a truck to drive the five of us to Quilotoa, about a 20 minutes drive from Zumbahua. It was freezing, windy and bumby as hell, but the uncovered truck gave us a perfect view of the stars. We arrived in Quilotoa a little numb, but warmly welcome by the hostal owner. We exchanged some Kichwa and sat down to a hearty three course meal (as per usual in Ecuador).
Because there were elections on Sunday, all of Ecuador was supposed to be dry until Monday, but that didn't stop us from procuring rum and boxed wine. Sophie, the three Americans (Chris, Andy and Mike), Finn (from Ireland) and I played drinking games till the morn and probably kept the whole town up with our laughter.
The next morning, we all set out to the lake. Words can't even describe its magnificence.
Mike, Chris, Andy and Finn were set to hike the crater rim, while Sophie and I were going to brave the 23 kms to Chugchilan. We parted ways a quarter of the way through and Soph and i set off with Alfonso and Alfonso (the guide and his horse). For the first time, Soph and I were able to put out Kichwa to use with Alfonso, among others, and we realized how little we truly know how to say (beyond the typical conversation questions and names of animals). It was nice to practice and gain Alfonso's respect, but a little disheartening to realize we can say so little.
catching our breaths, looking at breathtaking things
When we finally arrived in the tiny town of Chugchilan 5.5 hours later, I was beyond exhausted and a little wet from some rain. But the Black Sheep Inn (the eco-lodge we stayed at) was extremely welcoming and rather luxurious compared to our previous night's stay. That night, we chatted with other travelers at a family style dinner of cauliflower soup and vegetarian sheperds pie (YUM!). Sophie and I went to sleep sore and tired, but extremely satisfied.
We awoke the next day, Sunday, the election day, so a massive pancake breakfast. I could barely move my legs but my mouth worked just fine so I was pretty content with the day's start. The view from the lodge was breathtaking (surprise, surprise) and we set off with some travelers back to the lake for one last look. The truck ride was very dusty, so much so that we all covered our faces like bandits to avoid breathing it. In fact, my hair and skin were literally a different color after the ride.
From the lake, we hitched another car to Zumbahua, climbed one last hill and waited for a bus down the moutain. Seeing as it was election day, everyone was trying to do the same thing and we ended up not having seats for the 2 hour drive to Latacunga. I fell asleep on the floor of the bus and everything thought I was drunk... just a little embarassing.
From Latacunga we had to wait another 2 hours to get on a bus because of the crowds. It required some serious pushing to finally get on, and when we did, didn't have real seats, yet again. What we did have, though, was quite an interesting conversation with an older afro-ecuadorian woman, an indigenous family (with some very graphic breastfeeding... i mean REALLY graphic), and a Colombian immigrant. We were quite a crew. The bus ride was long thanks to election day traffic and we arrived back home exhausted, wet and a little sun burnt. I could only stay awake long enough to eat some soup and change out of my dirty clothes... needless to say, I slept well that night.
We hired a truck to drive the five of us to Quilotoa, about a 20 minutes drive from Zumbahua. It was freezing, windy and bumby as hell, but the uncovered truck gave us a perfect view of the stars. We arrived in Quilotoa a little numb, but warmly welcome by the hostal owner. We exchanged some Kichwa and sat down to a hearty three course meal (as per usual in Ecuador).
Because there were elections on Sunday, all of Ecuador was supposed to be dry until Monday, but that didn't stop us from procuring rum and boxed wine. Sophie, the three Americans (Chris, Andy and Mike), Finn (from Ireland) and I played drinking games till the morn and probably kept the whole town up with our laughter.
The next morning, we all set out to the lake. Words can't even describe its magnificence.
Mike, Chris, Andy and Finn were set to hike the crater rim, while Sophie and I were going to brave the 23 kms to Chugchilan. We parted ways a quarter of the way through and Soph and i set off with Alfonso and Alfonso (the guide and his horse). For the first time, Soph and I were able to put out Kichwa to use with Alfonso, among others, and we realized how little we truly know how to say (beyond the typical conversation questions and names of animals). It was nice to practice and gain Alfonso's respect, but a little disheartening to realize we can say so little.
niñas lindas
view from the lake's ridge
Along the way we encountered some sweet little girls, with whom with shared our PB sandwiches (they were extremely poor), some very angry dogs (absolutely terrifying) and some overwhelming huge hills to climb. Needless to say, the hike was one of the hardest I've ever done, especially at 10,000 feet where breathing is difficult, but it was well worth it.
view from the lake's ridge
couldn't have been more spectacular
A sheep 19km into the hike
catching our breaths, looking at breathtaking things
When we finally arrived in the tiny town of Chugchilan 5.5 hours later, I was beyond exhausted and a little wet from some rain. But the Black Sheep Inn (the eco-lodge we stayed at) was extremely welcoming and rather luxurious compared to our previous night's stay. That night, we chatted with other travelers at a family style dinner of cauliflower soup and vegetarian sheperds pie (YUM!). Sophie and I went to sleep sore and tired, but extremely satisfied.
We awoke the next day, Sunday, the election day, so a massive pancake breakfast. I could barely move my legs but my mouth worked just fine so I was pretty content with the day's start. The view from the lodge was breathtaking (surprise, surprise) and we set off with some travelers back to the lake for one last look. The truck ride was very dusty, so much so that we all covered our faces like bandits to avoid breathing it. In fact, my hair and skin were literally a different color after the ride.
From the lake, we hitched another car to Zumbahua, climbed one last hill and waited for a bus down the moutain. Seeing as it was election day, everyone was trying to do the same thing and we ended up not having seats for the 2 hour drive to Latacunga. I fell asleep on the floor of the bus and everything thought I was drunk... just a little embarassing.
From Latacunga we had to wait another 2 hours to get on a bus because of the crowds. It required some serious pushing to finally get on, and when we did, didn't have real seats, yet again. What we did have, though, was quite an interesting conversation with an older afro-ecuadorian woman, an indigenous family (with some very graphic breastfeeding... i mean REALLY graphic), and a Colombian immigrant. We were quite a crew. The bus ride was long thanks to election day traffic and we arrived back home exhausted, wet and a little sun burnt. I could only stay awake long enough to eat some soup and change out of my dirty clothes... needless to say, I slept well that night.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Baños
Some photographic updates:
cuy, ie guinea pig
jas, dani, yo, lianna, herman
niños
bella vista
the closest you'll get to an ecuadorian sunse
Monday, September 15, 2008
abuelitos de la calle
[1]
It was my second day at Abuelitos and Dona Suzy had me working in the kitchen. I was handed a knife and preceded to chop frozen cantaloupe until my fingers were red with numbness.... and that's when I knew I had to get out of the kitchen for good.
After finally escaping the wrath of frozen fruit, I joined a group of abuelitos in their morning exercises (which involves stretching, wiggling fingers and twirls). After loosening up our muscles, Dona Suzy told us partner up, close our eyes and stand facing one another, palm to palm. And as such we stood, in silence, for almost five minutes, after which we were asked, "¿Como te sentían?" (How did you feel?) My partner raised her hand, smiled at me with her eyes and said, “I felt very loved. I felt so much love."
It was my second day at Abuelitos and Dona Suzy had me working in the kitchen. I was handed a knife and preceded to chop frozen cantaloupe until my fingers were red with numbness.... and that's when I knew I had to get out of the kitchen for good.
After finally escaping the wrath of frozen fruit, I joined a group of abuelitos in their morning exercises (which involves stretching, wiggling fingers and twirls). After loosening up our muscles, Dona Suzy told us partner up, close our eyes and stand facing one another, palm to palm. And as such we stood, in silence, for almost five minutes, after which we were asked, "¿Como te sentían?" (How did you feel?) My partner raised her hand, smiled at me with her eyes and said, “I felt very loved. I felt so much love."
mis abuelitas
yes, swordfighting is part of morning exercise
Thursday, September 4, 2008
me encanta quito
Courtyard in Museo del Ciudad
Centro Historico
La Virgen
amor
morning sky outside my house
Beautiful art exhibition at Centro Metropolitano
Gorgeous Church
I illegally took this picture so it doesn't even begin to do this church justice
Monday, September 1, 2008
Nukaka super unkushkami kani.
Ah to be sick at 10,000 feet... is it possible that altitude makes everything feel so much worse? Granted, I probably could have taken better care of myself. For one thing, I should not have gone dancing Friday night, nor should I have eaten that cheap ass Chinese food... or street Shawerma (although, according to Jed, shawerma cures all)... or gone to the casino (there's free beer!)... or taken an hour long busride to El Mitad del Mundo, but it was all so wonderful, I'd do it again. Needless to say I spent all of Saturday morning/afternoon in bed and on Sunday I passed out at 4 and slept until 7:30 this morning. I wish I could say I'm fully recovered, but I'd be lying.
Jed and one of his many shawerma men... some might call him a shawerma slut, but I like to call him an enthusiast.
It's incredibly hard to beleive I've only been here a week, but that's what the calendar keeps telling me. So far, my schedule is as follows:
Monday- Kichwa 9-12; Seminar 4-6
Tuesday- No classes = adventuring in the city
Wednesday- Kichwa 9-12; Ethno Methods 4-6
Thursday- Voluteering at Abuelitos de la Calle (Grandparents of the Streets) 10-1
Friday- Kichwa 9-12
Kichwa is proving to be both a hilarious and frustrating experience. Hilarious and fun when taught by Jose and terribly frustrating when taught by Jaime, his brother. Jose is the type of language teacher that inspires students and is a constant reminder of why we're taking the time to learn Kichwa. Jaime on the other hand, well... I think he tries, but its just a pretty miserable experience. The only "redeeming" quality of Jaime's teaching are his drawings...
Fig 1. happy and/or angry
Fig 2. bad
Fig 3. sad
Fig 4. happy and/or angry
Fig 5. angry (notice the pinneapple)
Fig 6. sick
Fig 7. a mouse
in essence, nothing he draws makes any sense and you're always wrong in your interpretation.
More later, its lunch time in my house and my brothers just got back from their first day of school...
Jed and one of his many shawerma men... some might call him a shawerma slut, but I like to call him an enthusiast.
It's incredibly hard to beleive I've only been here a week, but that's what the calendar keeps telling me. So far, my schedule is as follows:
Monday- Kichwa 9-12; Seminar 4-6
Tuesday- No classes = adventuring in the city
Wednesday- Kichwa 9-12; Ethno Methods 4-6
Thursday- Voluteering at Abuelitos de la Calle (Grandparents of the Streets) 10-1
Friday- Kichwa 9-12
Kichwa is proving to be both a hilarious and frustrating experience. Hilarious and fun when taught by Jose and terribly frustrating when taught by Jaime, his brother. Jose is the type of language teacher that inspires students and is a constant reminder of why we're taking the time to learn Kichwa. Jaime on the other hand, well... I think he tries, but its just a pretty miserable experience. The only "redeeming" quality of Jaime's teaching are his drawings...
Fig 1. happy and/or angry
Fig 2. bad
Fig 3. sad
Fig 4. happy and/or angry
Fig 5. angry (notice the pinneapple)
Fig 6. sick
Fig 7. a mouse
in essence, nothing he draws makes any sense and you're always wrong in your interpretation.
More later, its lunch time in my house and my brothers just got back from their first day of school...
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